Looking Ahead, Looking Behind

This year, we’ll be celebrating (drumroll, please) 50 years of making flutes! Since that’s a bit of a milestone, it feels like a good time to pause and reflect on instruments and the hands that make them...

(Left to right, Patrick, Aaron, Seth, and Matthew)

Patrick and Aaron at the workbench, c. early 1990s


In writing this, I want to shine the spotlight on my son Aaron, who first apprenticed with me as a lad and then when he had mastered the art and craft of flute-making, joined me as a partner in the business nearly twenty years ago. His dedication and skill have far surpassed any expectations I could have had, and from the first he approached the workbench with goodwill, a hunger to learn, and keen creativity. He and his brother Matthew grew up in the shop, whittling, tinkering, learning to use tools and do flute work, and also learning to play the flute and other instruments. Both of them, inquisitive by nature and beginning with an aptitude for tools and keen attention to detail, worked on flutes and other aspects of the business from the very beginning, and joined myself and their mother Rowena in a life of living, eating, and breathing music and the flutes we make.

Matthew (on left in the first two images) and Aaron (on left in the third)

Over the years, I’ve watched Aaron transform raw materials into artfully made instruments, infusing every one with his own creativity and precision. In 2006 with my blessing, he began making his own flutes from start to finish, and in recent years, he has made the majority of the keyed flutes that have come out of our workshop. Now, he continues to do the bulk of the keyed work and together we are training our two apprentices: Aaron's brother Matthew, and Seth Swingle. Aaron has also stayed true to the high level of quality that we strive for, while bringing fresh ideas and innovation to our work. He long ago earned my respect, trust, and confidence, but because we are an informal operation, there was never a graduation ceremony or an official recognition when Aaron finished his apprenticeship and joined me at the helm of the workshop. It’s long overdue perhaps, but this is a bit of a hat-tip to him for all he’s done.

When I started making flutes in 1975 it was on something like a whim and I had no idea it would become the focus of my life and livelihood, putting bread on the table and a roof over our heads for so many years, and allowing me to create a business that (with a bit of luck) will be in family hands for a long time to come. I've been thinking a lot about the the musical community that I am lucky enough to be part of and which is so important to my life as a craftsman and musician. The friendships, support, and inspiration have kept me motivated from day one, and the goodwill of our customers has always brought me much joy.

In the world of art and music, the myth of the “lone mad genius” is a powerful one, but the truth is that all creativity stems from something that has come before and is so often aided by the labor of others. We study the work of our predecessors and then see if we can add to that store of knowledge and expand it. This is what I did as I studied old flutes to learn how they were made, and it is with great joy that I see Aaron, Matthew, and Seth continuing that tradition. I have no doubt that they will keep the torch aloft and bright! I hope to make many more flutes before I go, but I’m also happy and grateful that there are skilled and capable hands to carry on the work.

Here’s to many more years and many more flutes...

-Patrick Olwell 

(Patrick and Aaron at the Maryland Renaissance Festival, on the Downtown Mall in Charlottesville Virginia at the Christmas Market, and at an unknown festival gig.

Photos from c. 1987-1996 at a guess.)

How To Vacuum Test A Flute

When doing repairs or checking the fit of plugs, pads, and cork, we use a simple test in the workshop to check for leaks and ensure that the various parts of a flute are airtight. The good news is, you don't need to be a skilled repair tech to do this at home, and anyone can learn to diagnose a leaky flute part.

You can do this test on any section of a flute, and while we use it most often to check a head-joint for leaks, it also works to check for leaking pads.

It's best to check each piece separately. For instance, to check a headjoint, remove the barrel and hold the head with a thumb or forefinger over the embouchure and place your lips on the metal tube end. Draw air out of the tube to create a partial vacuum, and keep the seal with your lips or tongue. You should be able to feel the resulting pressure as air tries to get back into the tube. After a few seconds, remove your lips, and there should be a slight "pop" as the pressure equalizes. If the tube is leaking, you won't be able to maintain this vacuum, or it won't hold for long and you'll feel the pressure reduce as air passes back into the head through the leak.

It's possible for a head to leak either around the plug or between the metal of the head tube and the wood of the headjoint, so if you detect a leak, the next step is to ascertain where the leak is coming from. To do this, remove the end cap and cover the end of the head tube with the palm of your hand so that the end is sealed, keep the mouth hole covered as well, and repeat the above suction test. If the leak is no longer detectable, it's likely that simply replacing the plug will solve the problem. If on the other hand, the leak is still present, a more delicate repair to seal the head tube may be needed. Our plugs (which are carefully fitted and faced with sheet cork) are very unlikely to leak so if a head is leaking, there's a good chance that the latter situation is to blame, with air leaking between the tube and wood of the head.

To check a midsection or footjoint for leaking pads, it is necessary to cover all the holes and repeat the suction test as above. With a one-piece midsection this is a little tricky, as you'll need both hands to cover the finger holes, so you'll have to either enlist a friend to help by covering the bottom of the midsection, push it against the bare skin of your leg to seal the end, or seal it in some other way. If you find a leak, it's probable that one of the key pads is not sealing properly and may need to be replaced, or that one of the springs needs to be adjusted.

Related Notes on Oiling:

It is possible for congealed oil and dust to get into a keyway (especially if you're over-oiling your flute) and cause the key to bind in the slot so that it is not able to freely return to a closed position as it should, which can cause a leak. It's a good idea to familiarize yourself with the action of the keys so that you can feel the difference when a key is binding in the slot.

When oiling a flute—generally inside only and no more often than needed—it's important not to over-do it. It's best to do this before playing the flute rather than after, so that the bore isn't saturated with moisture from playing. Aim for a light coat of oil that is not enough to run down the bore or cause drips. If you sight down the bore against a bright light, it should look shiny after oiling (in contrast to the dull, dry, matte look before oiling). Let it sit for a few minutes, then use a dry rag or paper towel on a cleaning rod to swab out any excess that could build up on the bore and the recesses that the keypads hit. We recommend almond or olive oil rather than bore oil. Petroleum-based bore oil is supposed to be non-hardening, but we have had some customers complain that it has built up on the bore and gummed up the keys and/or pads.

Here's an example of a flute that has been over-oiled and the keys not removed or protected from the oil:

You can see above how the oil has built up on the pad, interfering with the sealing action of the key, which is why is is a good idea to remove the keys when oiling, or to protect them with a twist of plastic wrap until you've allowed the oil to soak into the bore and then swabbed out the excess:

We hope this description will be helpful in explaining the process of a "vacuum test" and enable you to check your flute for leaks if something doesn't feel right. Happy fluting, and as always, drop us a line if you have a question!

Flutes & Humidity

Here in the fluteshop, we like to take every opportunity to remind flute players and our customers that like many musical instruments, wood flutes are quite sensitive to humidity and will swell or shrink as the wood absorbs or loses moisture from (or to) the surrounding environment. In the wrong conditions it's quite possible for a flute to crack, and even though we take great care to season our wood properly to reduce this risk, there are some steps you must take if you share your home with a flute or travel with one. If you can't find a "flute terrarium" like this one, never fear! There are some simple things you can and should do to protect your flute.

The first thing to be aware of is the ever-changing relative humidity (RH) in the geographical area and individual living space in which the flute is kept. While it's not important to understand all of the relevant physics (we can't all be meteorologists, right?), note that the volume of moisture needed to reach a given RH changes with air temperature—thus in winter, conditions tend to be drier, especially indoors with forced-air and most other heating systems. As far as we have been able to ascertain, the ideal humidity range for a wooden flute is about 45-60% (possibly 50-60% for antique flutes which may not tolerate drier conditions as well as modern ones). However, indoor humidity in a home can be much lower: easily 25% in many areas of the U.S. and so extra care is needed to protect your flute from the possibility of cracking.

Step 1: Get an Accurate Hygrometer

In our experience, these things aren't always calibrated correctly, so its a good idea to

get a several and check them against each other. If you have three or four and they all agree except for one, you can be reasonably certain that those with similar readings are correct. If you get the type with an additional sensor and place it outside, you'll be able to see what the outdoor conditions are as well. This can give you a heads-up when there is a change in the weather and it's about to get dry indoors.

Step 2: Keep an Eye on the Humidity

Depending on where you live, the climate may be more or less of an issue. Ireland for instance has wetter weather than most places in the U.S., but even in wet climates, indoor

humidity can be much lower than outdoor, depending on how the home is heated or cooled. It's a good idea to swab excess moisture out of the flute after playing and to keep a hygrometer in the case as well. This is especially important when traveling. Alternatively, in

very dry conditions it may be beneficial to refrain from wiping all of the moisture out of the flute and allow the condensation inside the bore to keep the conditions in the case from drying out. A smaller device like the one seen at right can be placed inside the case—particularly critical when going from a relatively wet climate to a drier one. For example, if you live in Virginia and take a trip to Arizona, be aware that you're moving from a medium-humidity environment to the literal desert and need to take extra precautions. No one wants their flute to end up like this...

Step 3: Ideas for DIY Humidors

Depending on the above variables, it can be quite difficult to maintain the proper humidity. During a recent test we performed at home, the RH was below 30%, even after running a humidifier on high for 48 hours. In this instance it is best to keep flutes in something with a sealed vapor barrier, even if it is just a large, heavy-duty ziplock bag. We have yet to find an affordable humidor option designed for flutes, so start with a bag with a hygrometer inside and then work your way up from there.

The next step up and the simplest is a plastic tub with a rubber seal integrated into the lid. One of these made by Sterilite is a good solution, especially if you have multiple

flutes, and the clear sides allow the hygrometer to be seen without opening the lid. The rubber seal is important because the bins without them tend to dry out too quickly. You can place a cut half of an apple or a damp sponge inside to act as a time-release moisture holder and then keep an eye on the hygrometer so you know when to change it out.

If you really want to go all the way down the RH rabbit hole and make something a little nicer to look at, it's actually not difficult to make a home humidor out of a wall cabinet with a few basic tools. Our in-house mad genius Aaron Olwell created one for flute parts in the shop by sealing around the door of a wall cabinet with foam rubber, cutting a hole in the door (that is then taped over with clear tape), affixing a hygrometer to the inside, and then putting in a moisture source. Some trial and error may be needed to get the right amount of moisture going inside, but then you have a stable place where it is easier to control the RH.

However you choose to do it, don't forget to monitor the environment in which your flutes are kept, and make sure it doesn't get too dry. Remember, a dry flute is a sad flute!